The Kebab trail of Kolkata

Kolkata has a rich and famous tradition of Mughlai and Awadhi cuisine and to experience the most authentic and tasty fare, one has to venture in the lanes and bye- lanes of Old Central Kolkata. The best place to start is the Nakhoda Masjid on Ranindra Sarani, very near the M.G. Road crossing and southward. Or, from the Central Metro Station to walk through Phears Lane towards north.

This is the Nakhoda Masjid as it is approached from South. The Rabindra Sarani is a thickly crowded and narrow street lined with shops and tram lines. People and vehicles jostle for space and it is difficult to stop and look around as there is always someone behind trying to push forward. Anyways, it is very typical of old areas as one sees in Chandni Chowk in Delhi or Lucknow.

The main road has some magnificent old buildings...

The grandeur and pomp of a beautiful house of the past

From the Central Avenue side near the Moonlight Cinema.... magnificent, huge house silently remaining in the glorious past, oblivious to the present time and changes

Grand, stylish and pompous like an old beauty queen... stands neglected and lonely

The buildings say a very vivid story about the locality and the inhabitants- that they are traditional, stuck in a time wrap and thus today, they are neglected and forgotten. However, it remains a fact that they were the best in their heyday and commanded awe and gave inspiration. Even today they are unparallel in their style and beauty and stand tall in spite of all abuse and neglect.

But, the streets and lanes behind the Nakhoda Masjid and the ground floors of buildings and the areas behind these buildings; are all kinds of shops and a fair section of them is eateries. They might not be the cleanest and swankiest in town and does not list on the restaurant guides of the city but one can have an unforgettable experience of the best of Mughlai and Awadhi cuisine here. The fantastically skilled culinary artists, Muslims by religion and learnt their trade from their forefathers have been practising and delivering like they have been for the last several generations. In fact, one look at the people, their equipment and shops will tell you that they have not changed much in decades.

The various kebabs that are served in small and mid-sized eateries here are delicious, succulent and cheap compared to their taste and the skills that go into their preparation. It is incredible actually!!

This is the typical charcoal fire and oven that one gets to see here and the iron skewers

 The old iron utensils which are slightly battered but spotlessly clean

This is the famous Kheeri Kabab.... made from cow udder, One of the softest yet tastiest meat/portion and the kebab is to be had with paratha or chapati.... the orange/yellow colour turns brown when grilled and is served with a mint chutney

The Burrah/ Barra Kebab- soft and succulent minced meat, crunchy and crispy on the outside and surface yet soft buttery inside, simply delicious with an accompaniment of diced onions and cucumber. Great for a evening snack.

The kebabs ready to be served.... on white porcelain plates.

The Sootli/ Soota Kebab. This actually has a thread running through the cylindrical kebab and you have to carefully separate it from the meat. The hollow cylindrical kebab is fine and crispy and like all the others, nothing resembling a fibre can be felt. Just out of the world in taste and feel.

This is a nostalgic yet happy trek through a little bit of history of the city, the people and their resolve and incredible skill and last but not the least, the heavenly delicious kebabs.